Memory Lane at Ciro's & Sal's Northern Italian Restaurant

Gillian Drake, in 'A Taste of Cape Cod', writes "Ciro & Sal's, Provincetown's best known and most popular restaurant was founded by Ciriaco Cozzi and Salvatore Del Deo in 1951 as a coffee shop. The two young men had met in Provincetown in 1947 as students of Henry Hensche, the painter, and in order to make a living as well as be able to paint, they decided to open an after-hours sandwich shop. It was an overnight success and became a gathering place for young artists such as Robert Beauchamp, Ed giobbi, Angelo Ippolito and Varujan Boghosian, all major figures in Provincetown's art colony and friends of Ciro and Sal. Today, Ciro & Sal's s still known as an artists' restaurant, and you may find yourself dining next to Norman Mailer or Paul Resika.

The original establishment was located in the cellar of a rambling old house at Kiley Court purchased by Ciro from Irene Millington. The investment was small, but it was all the money Ciro had, and together with Sal and $200, they managed to open a little shop with a Silex coffeemaker. Friends donated silverware, glassware, and odds-and-ends. This late-night spot was so popular that neighbors complained of the noise to the Board of Selectmen, who voted an 11:30 p.m. curfew. After a week of starvation, Ciro & Sal's was forced into becoming a bona fide restaurant.

The first menu at Ciro & Sal's consisted of simple pasta and chicken dishes inspired by old family recipes, as well as fish dishes utilizing the plentiful supply of fresh local seafood. Their policy of hiring and training non-professionals from the ground up still holds true today and has produced many a gourmet cook. In fact, a number of Provincetown's restaurateurs learned the business at Ciro & Sal's.

In 1959 Sal left the business to paint full time (and would later open his own restaurant, Sal's Place), and shortly thereafter Ciro purchased additional property at Kiley Court to expand the kitchen. Today, the restaurant consists of a number of loosely connected dining areas in the old brick cellar. With slate floors, candlelit tables and low ceilings festooned with straw-clad Chianti bottles, the restaurant exudes the romantic atmosphere of an Italian cantina, which, in Provincetown, is quite unique. Upstairs, mirrored walls, soaring ceilings and large windows overlooking the surrounding gardens lend an air of Renaissance elegance to additional dining space. The adjoining bar, a charming hideaway tucked beneath the eaves of the old building, opens at 5 p.m. and is a popular gather spot.

The menu has expanded over the years to offer the widest selection of Italian specialties on the Cape. Cooked to gourmet perfection with the freshest ingredients are such favorites as manicotti, cannelloni, lasagna verdi, spaghetti carbonara and fettucine alla Romano, as well as a variety of exquisite veal, chicken and seafood dishes. The veal dishes, especially are renowned for their quality and flavor."

In April, 2000, following a winter of uncertainty and negotiation, Larry Luster, Cynthia Packard and Ann Packard emerged as the new owners of the financially ailing restaurant. Larry and Cynthia, both longtime employees, had as their vision a revival of the beloved institution and a return to its prominent status in the community, serving traditional recipes of freshly prepared Northern Italian cuisine and restoring the ambience to the comfortable and inviting atmosphere that was it's former heritage.

The restaurant owes its re-birth to Larry Luster and Cynthia Packard Luster, without whose vision, perseverance and willingness to take a risk, this venerable institution might not have survived. Pictured here with their youngest daughter, Emma, Larry is very much a 'hands on' owner. His home away from home is Ciro's kitchen where he oversees the preparation of all the sauces and ingredients that are needed at night. Cynthia's artistic creativity has been subtly interspersed everywhere from her inspired menu designs to the garden plantings, from the paintings on the walls to the cocktail lounge's decorative accessories. Ciro & Sal's future is definitely in capable hands.

Cynthia, mother of four children, is an established and successful Provincetown artist exhibiting at the family owned Packard Gallery just a few doors up on Commercial Street. Her paintings, as well as those of her mother, Anne Packard, adorn the walls of the restaurant. Designing the new menu covers was a project perfectly suited to Cynthia's talents. Pictured here, opening night May 3, 2000, Cynthia (middle) and son, Silas (left), and hostess, Jaima (right), fold the brand new menus, hot off the press, minutes before guests arrive!

Larry Luster (pictured here with his sister Stephanie), purchased Ciro & Sal's and changed the course of history. Rescuing the ailing establishment from financial difficulties, physical deterioration and a declining reputation, Larry rolled up his sleeves and began the serious task of rebuilding one of the most beloved restaurants in all of Provincetown. Larry has been at Ciro's for well over 30 years, arriving from Tennessee as a child, and working his way up through the ranks of dishwasher, busboy, kitchen help and waiter. Larry's intimate knowledge of all the menu items and inner workings of the restaurant will assure the continuity and consistency that customers expect. Stephanie came up from Larry's home town of Chattanooga to help with last minute details. Cleaning, painting, decorating and repairs took place in the space of two months, allowing the gem that is Ciro & Sal's to shine brightly once again. Front page articles in the Provincetown Banner and The Provincetown Advocate tell the whole story. In recognition of an exceptional dining experience 'Cape Cod Life' awarded Ciro & Sal's 'Best Ethnic Restaurant on the Outer Cape' for 2001 and 2002. In addition, Anthony Bourdain, author of 'Kitchen Confidential', and former fledgling chef in Provincetown, filmed a segment at Ciro's for the Food TV Network.

Charles Luster, pictured here surrounded by his wife, Audrey (left) and his mother (right), has worked at Ciro & Sal's since the early 70's. Charles has a winning way and a great sense of humor. He and Larry have been the heart and soul of the 'prep crew' for the better part of the last three decades. These two brothers have been the essence of 'Ciro & Sal's' for a long time......they make the veal, chicken and fish stocks, the tomato, marinara and puttanesca sauces; they layer the Lasagnas, roll the Cannellonis and fill the chicken breasts. They prepare the Saltimbocca and stuffed pork and lamb roasts; they chop the vegetables, clean the shellfish and make barrels of pesto. Behind the scenes for so many years, it is Larry and Charles, the unsung heroes, to whom we are all indebted for such consistently great food!

Alan Carter, a chef at Ciro & Sal's for many years, is now a resident of Vermont. When he heard that Larry and Cynthia had bought the restaurant and were looking for kitchen staff he agreed to commute on weekends and help train some of our new employees. It's certainly a magnificent gesture of friendship and support, but Alan is no stranger to commuting. A rugged athlete, in the old days he thought nothing of biking to work in Provincetown from Yarmouth! Thanks Alan!

Alex Getmanov, (left) and Wayne Gustafson, (right) stopped in to say hello, enjoy a great meal and wish Larry and Cynthia well. Both former Ciro & Sal's chefs, Alex is currently living in New Jersey making his living as an accountant and computer systems analyst. Wayne spent many years in Telluride, CO., with his then wife, Lou, establishing a first class restaurant of their own, named Julian's, at the New Sheridan Hotel. More recently he moved his establishment to Santa Fe, NM. and continued to run a popular and classy restaurant featuring Northern Italian cuisine until 2007 when he sold the restaurant and retired. Bravo, Wayne!

For old time's sake we had to have a picture of four of the best chefs Ciro & Sal's has known. Wayne, Charles, Alex and James. What a legacy these talented knife wielding gentleman have created and carry on!

John Carbone, (June 24, 1926 - February 21, 2009) was one of the original staff members of the restaurant when Ciro and Sal first opened. During the winters he lived in NYC where he was a dancer, teacher and choreographer. Through his friendships with Ray and Grace Rizk and Murray Wax he found himself in Provincetown, eventually moving full time to his home in Truro. Beloved by all, he was a favorite waiter to many longtime customers. John had a unique and wonderful sense of humor and was always concerned about his friends and family. He is sorely missed. For a link to an obituary click here.

Michael and Carolina are two of the most charming students from the Czech Republic that you'd ever want to meet! As the backbone of our bussing staff in the summer of 2000 they did a terrific job keeping the restaurant supplies in order. They managed to make themselves understood and learned more English daily. We wish you could have stayed forever!

Laurel Wimberg has tended bar and waited on tables at Ciro & Sal's on and off over the past 30 years. Owner of a successful silkscreening business, Bayview Extension, and our original source for Ciro & Sal's teeshirts, she has retired from restaurant work and now splits her year between a Mexico and a waterfront condo in Provincetown!

Scott Bloom began his Ciro's career as a busboy but has proved himself as a capable and personable waiter over the years with a flare for recommending just the right dish and wine to go with it. He graduated from Vassar College where he studied French, Italian and English and would happily converse with you fluently in any of those languages! His interests include karate, basketball, movies and books. Scott has been a practising Buddhist for 14 years and has been living on the West Coast since 2002.

Sergé Legendre, who grew up spending summers in Provincetown and working at Ciro's during his teenage years, was the backbone of our bussing staff from 2000-2002, taking a temporary leave from his New York life as a court stenographer. Sergé is a devoted basketball coach and in his time off offered his talents to Provincetown's high school basketball team.

Aurimas Savickas hails from Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania where he was a student at the Lithuanian University of Law. 2002 was Aurimus' first summer in Provincetown and he was glad to have had an opportunity to improve his English skills, meet new people and, of course, earn some money! We were delighted to have Aurimas as part of our bussing staff.

David Korpas was a 24 year old doctoral candidate in Medical Technology at the University of Palacky in Olomouc, Czech Republic, when he joined us for his first summer in Provincetown at Ciro & Sal's. In contrast to his serious studies David enjoyed working with our staff as a busboy, improving his English and making friends wherever he went.

Dennis and Debbie Minsky, now year rounders in Provincetown used to spen winters teaching in New Jersey. They made Provincetown their home during July and August and as many off-season weekends as they can squeeze in until they retired and returned here full time. I'm sure lots of you remember Dennis in his incarnation as one of our all time best waiters and Debbie as our charming hostess. This happy couple met at Ciro's, married and are the proud parents of two adult daughters and a new grandchild.

Lyliam Araujo was our head chef for the 2005 season. Born in Rio di Janiero, Brazil, her Latin heritage, flair for well seasoned dishes and years of experience (Grand Central, Napi's, Pepe's and Cerutti's) stood her in good stead as she oversaw Ciro's kitchen and created weekly specials that combined fresh local ingredients with innovative new twists. Lyliam's forté is the sauté station.......there is no one more calm, more focused or more consistent no matter how busy the night. Originally planning on a career as a marine biologist in Wood's Hole, Lyliam detoured to Provincetown and began cooking in restaurants, a talent that came naturally and was nurtured earlier in life by her mother's culinary expertise. Although soft-spoken and diminutive there is no doubt that Lyliam is both capable and in charge. In her spare time Lyliam enjoys water sports, photography and spending time with her dog, Ian, a Jack Russel/Welsh Corgi mix. She has returned to school and we wish her well.

Albie Zondiors, Lyliam's right hand man, as it were, is no stranger to Ciro's or Provincetown, having worked in our kitchen on and off for a number of years and having spent time on the Outer Cape since he was an infant. Classically trained in French, German and Italian cuisine, Albie hails from Springfield, MA. but spent 10 years in the Caribbean early on honing his craft at restaurants such as the Provence Bistro and Alexander's Cafe in St. Thomas. A colorful character, to be sure, we are all very fond of Albie and the spice he adds to our kitchen (literally and figuratively!). For now he is devoting himself full time to his painting company, A to Z.

Susie Jahnig was an institution at Ciro's having been a server for many, many moons as well as our pastry chef over the years. A gifted songstress, Susie was always called upon for a chorus of 'Happy Birthday'......and if it's a joke you wanted to hear she had a great knack for storytelling and humor. Dinner around the family table isn't be the same without Susie's comments and perspective on life! In 2004 she moved to Florida and now enjoys warm weather year round.

Lessie Sargent, who grew up on the Cape, is a Luster relation and former member of our wait staff. Lessie is quiet and competent, seldom getting ruffled and never raising her voice. How does she maintain such a calm demeaner???? Could it have anything to do with the year she spent studying in Spain? In search of more work Lessie found a job at the Mews and is now there full time.

Cassie Hultin, who grew up in Truro, is the daughter of longtime former Ciro's employee, Linnet Hultin. It was a treat having a second generation member of our staff especially when most of us remember her birth and formative years! Cassie was both a waitress and a bartender at Ciro's and is the proud mom of son, Adin, born in June 2003!

Steven Rome, a Packard cousin, spent several summers in various capacities including waiter and service bartender. During the day Steven kept busy as a gallery attendant at the Packard Gallery just up the street where his mother (Leslie Packard), aunt (Cynthia Packard) and grandmother (Anne Packard) display their artwork. Steven now spends his time in China, living with relatives, studying and working.

Phyllis Lutsky, originally from NYC, had been coming to the Cape since 1997. She joined our waitstaff in 2004 bringing with her a professional work ethic and a good sense of humor, honed, no doubt while driving a cab for a living in NYC. During the day Phyllis was a landscaper, doing her best to add to the beauty of the Cape. She found Provincetown the perfect dog friendly place for her Lab mix, Remy. We wish you well.

Donovan Davis, from Hanover, Jamaica, has been returning to P'town seaonally since 2001 to help us out as a waiter and bartender. Donovan learned his craft well as a head wine steward for the Norwegian Cruise Line for 8 years. At home in Jamaica he has a wife and four children and, in his off time, likes watching movies, especially drama and science fiction. Unable to obtain the necessary seasonal visa in 2008 we regret that Donovan will not be with us this year. We miss you!

Angela Pagano (Angie), adding to the international flavor, came to us from Montreal. Aside from being a crack bartender and charming waitress, she loves to travel, is studying interior design and is an aspiring photographer. In case you can't find Angie at Ciro's you're likely to run into her at Fanizzi's or the Euro too!

Karlis Simas, a student from Vilnius, Lithuania, joins our staff as a busboy and service bartender. Majoring in computer studies and economics is only one side of this talented young man's story. His extraordinary good looks have landed him modeling jobs for tv commercials, print ads and runway work in Lithuania. Not a bad way to pay for school! In his spare time he enjoys volleyball, basketball and working out.

Andrei Goriounov, from Novorossiysk, Russia (near the Black Sea) has been with us as a busboy since 2002. He is a teacher of English as a second language in his native Russia, has learned to be a carpenter here and hopes to attend Mass. Maritime Academy in the near future. We're happy to have Andrei as a member of our staff and rely on his quiet competence and attention to detail.

Lincoln Davis, from Hopewell, Jamaica, returns to P'town for his tenth summer season, fourth at Ciro's, to round out our bussing staff. Lincoln always has a smile on his face and has been an eager and capable addition to our crew. His wife works on Nantucket in the summer so, while they are still apart, it's a lot closer than Jamaica. In his spare time Lincoln enjoys soccer, cricket, listening to music and caring for his 14 year old son.

Jennifer Lopez, was a former hostess. Born and raised in Provincetown, she dazzled us one Halloween with her outstanding carved pumpkins. Martha Stewart, watch out! Aside from her hostessing duties Jennifer made all our desserts for several years. She decided to go back to school and is now working in the medical profession. In her spare time, Jennifer loves to travel and has been to Spain and Africa. Now most of her time is spent caring for her young daughter, Michaela.

Jonathan Myrie comes from Westmoreland, Jamaica, and was with us for several years as a member of our dishwashing staff. He is friendly, reliable and hardworking.....who could ask for anything more! In his free time Jonathan enjoys sports and music.

Orville Davis, unable to return for want of the proper visa, hails from Jamaica, and is the fourth sibling in his family to work at Ciro's. No one has a bigger smile or an easier going personality than this gentle and capable man. We're delighted he's been part of our crew and happier still that last year he moved up to a position in the cold station doing all our salads, appetizers and desserts.

Marcia Johnson and Jack Gallagher, customers from Hampstead, NH, love our restaurant so much that they named their two Siamese cats after us. Ciro is the sealpoint on the right and Sal is the bluepoint on the left. We consider that quite a compliment!