Ciro & Sal's
Memory Lane

Gillian Drake, in 'A Taste of Cape Cod', writes "Ciro & Sal's, Provincetown's best known and most popular restaurant was founded by Ciriaco Cozzi and Salvatore Del Deo in 1951 as a coffee shop. The two young men had met in Provincetown in 1947 as students of Henry Hensche, the painter, and in order to make a living as well as be able to paint, they decided to open an after-hours sandwich shop. It was an overnight success and became a gathering place for young artists such as Robert Beauchamp, Ed giobbi, Angelo Ippolito and Varujan Boghosian, all major figures in Provincetown's art colony and friends of Ciro and Sal. Today, Ciro & Sal's s still known as an artists' restaurant, and you may find yourself dining next to Norman Mailer or Paul Resika.

The original establishment was located in the cellar of a rambling old house at Kiley Court purchased by Ciro from Irene Millington. The investment was small, but it was all the money Ciro had, and together with Sal and $200, they managed to open a little shop with a Silex coffeemaker. Friends donated silverware, glassware, and odds-and-ends. This late-night spot was so popular that neighbors complained of the noise to the Board of Selectmen, who voted an 11:30 p.m. curfew. After a week of starvation, Ciro & Sal's was forced into becoming a bona fide restaurant.

The first menu at Ciro & Sal's consisted of simple pasta and chicken dishes inspired by old family recipes, as well as fish dishes utilizing the plentiful supply of fresh local seafood. Their policy of hiring and training non-professionals from the ground up still holds true today and has produced many a gourmet cook. In fact, a number of Provincetown's restaurateurs learned the business at Ciro & Sal's.

In 1959 Sal left the business to paint full time (and would later open his own restaurant, Sal's Place), and shortly thereafter Ciro purchased additional property at Kiley Court to expand the kitchen. Today, the restaurant consists of a number of loosely connected dining areas in the old brick cellar. With slate floors, candlelit tables and low ceilings festooned with straw-clad Chianti bottles, the restaurant exudes the romantic atmosphere of an Italian cantina, which, in Provincetown, is quite unique. Upstairs, mirrored walls, soaring ceilings and large windows overlooking the surrounding gardens lend an air of Renaissance elegance to additional dining space. The adjoining bar, a charming hideaway tucked beneath the eaves of the old building, opens at 5 p.m. and is a popular gather spot.

The menu has expanded over the years to offer the widest selection of Italian specialties on the Cape. Cooked to gourmet perfection with the freshest ingredients are such favorites as manicotti, cannelloni, lasagna verdi, spaghetti carbonara and fettucine alla Romano, as well as a variety of exquisite veal, chicken and seafood dishes. The veal dishes, especially are renowned for their quality and flavor."

In April, 2000, following a winter of uncertainty and negotiation, Larry Luster, Cynthia Packard and Ann Packard emerged as the new owners of the financially ailing restaurant. Larry and Cynthia, both longtime employees, had as their vision a revival of the beloved institution and a return to its prominent status in the community, serving traditional recipes of freshly prepared Northern Italian cuisine and restoring the ambience to the comfortable and inviting atmosphere that was it's former heritage.

The restaurant owes its re-birth to Larry Luster and Cynthia Packard Luster, without whose vision, perseverance and willingness to take a risk, this venerable institution might not have survived. Pictured here with their youngest daughter,Emma, Larry is very much a 'hands on' owner. His home away from home is Ciro's kitchen where he oversees the preparation of all the sauces and ingredients that are needed at night. Cynthia's artistic creativity has been subtly interspersed everywhere from her inspired menu designs to the garden plantings, from the paintings on the walls to the cocktail lounge's decorative accessories. Ciro & Sal's future is definitely in capable hands.

Cynthia, mother of four children, is an established and successful Provincetown artist exhibiting at the family owned Packard Gallery just a few doors up on Commercial Street. Her paintings, as well as those of her mother, Anne Packard, adorn the walls of the restaurant. Designing the new menu covers was a project perfectly suited to Cynthia's talents. Pictured here, opening night May 3, 2000, Cynthia (middle) and son, Silas (left), and hostess, Jaima (right), fold the brand new menus, hot off the press, minutes before guests arrive!

Larry Luster (pictured here with his sister Stephanie), purchased Ciro & Sal's and changed the course of history. Rescuing the ailing establishment from financial difficulties, physical deterioration and a declining reputation, Larry rolled up his sleeves and began the serious task of rebuilding one of the most beloved restaurants in all of Provincetown. Larry has been at Ciro's for over 30 years, arriving from Tennessee as a child, and working his way up through the ranks of dishwasher, busboy, kitchen help and waiter. Larry's intimate knowledge of all the menu items and inner workings of the restaurant will assure the continuity and consistency that customers expect. Stephanie came up from Larry's home town of Chattanooga to help with last minute details. Cleaning, painting, decorating and repairs took place in the space of two months, allowing the gem that is Ciro & Sal's to shine brightly once again. Front page articles in the Provincetown Banner and The Provincetown Advocate tell the whole story. In recognition of an exceptional dining experience 'Cape Cod Life' awarded Ciro & Sal's 'Best Ethnic Restaurant on the Outer Cape' for 2001 and 2002. In addition, Anthony Bourdain, author of 'Kitchen Confidential', and former fledgling chef in Provincetown, filmed a segment at Ciro's for the Food TV Network.

James Luster, Larry's brother and Executive Chef, brought a lifetime of experience with him when he signed on to help Larry re-open the restaurant. Arriving from Chattanooga, TN. in 1968 at the tender age of 14, James began as a dishwasher at Ciro's, quickly moving on to bussing and prep work. As the head of the prep crew his culinary interests expanded and he became a line cook, finally running the kitchen for 7 years under Ciro's management. After 17 years on Kiley Court, James left to run his own restaurant, James' Italian Style Cuisine, at the Bradford. In 1986 he attended Cape Cod Community College and received an Associate Degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management. Since then, James has run the kitchen at JC's (formerly Chipetto) in Truro, Gloria's (across from Town Hall in Provincetown) for four years, Ciro di Pasta in Orleans until 1998 and the Dancing Lobster in 1999 before his return to Ciro's in 2000. In October, 2001, James became the proud father of a son, Darius James, and thoroughly enjoys his new role as a daddy! As of March 2003, his life is now centered around his Barnstable home and family and a position as sous chef at Abbicci in Yarmouth, MA. We wish him well.

Charles Luster, pictured here surrounded by his wife, Audrey (left) and his mother (right), has worked at Ciro & Sal's since the early 70's. Charles has a winning way and a great sense of humor. He and Larry have been the heart and soul of the 'prep crew' for the better part of the last three decades. These two brothers have been the essence of 'Ciro & Sal's' for a long time......they make the veal, chicken and fish stocks, the tomato, marinara and puttanesca sauces; they layer the Lasagnas, roll the Cannellonis and fill the chicken breasts. They prepare the Saltimbocca and stuffed pork and lamb roasts; they chop the vegetables, clean the shellfish and make barrels of pesto. Behind the scenes for so many years, it is Larry and Charles, the unsung heroes, to whom we are all indebted for such consistently great food!

Alan Carter, a chef at Ciro & Sal's for many years, is now a resident of Vermont. When he heard that Larry and Cynthia had bought the restaurant and were looking for kitchen staff he agreed to commute on weekends and help train some of our new employees. It's certainly a magnificent gesture of friendship and support, but Alan is no stranger to commuting. A rugged athlete, in the old days he thought nothing of biking to work in Provincetown from Yarmouth! Thanks Alan!

Alex Getmanov, (left) and Wayne Gustafson, (right) stopped in to say hello, enjoy a great meal and wish Larry and Cynthia well. Both former Ciro & Sal's chefs, Alex is currently living in New York making his living as an accountant and computer systems analyst. Wayne spent many years in Telluride, CO. establishing a first class restaurant of his own, named Julian's, at the New Sheridan Hotel. More recently he has moved his establishment to Santa Fe, NM. and continues to run a popular and classy restaurant featuring Northern Italian cuisine.



For old time's sake we had to have a picture of four of the best chefs Ciro & Sal's has known. Wayne, Charles, Alex and James. What a legacy these talented knife wielding gentleman have created and carry on!

Michael and Carolina are two of the most charming students from the Czech Republic that you'd ever want to meet! As the backbone of our bussing staff in the summer of 2000 they did a terrific job keeping the restaurant supplies in order. They managed to make themselves understood and learned more English daily. We wish you could have stayed forever!