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Ciro
& Sal's
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'One
last meal before summer ends' Here's the bittersweet truth: It's time to plan that final salty swim in the ocean, walk in shirtsleeves under the stars and, yes, enjoy the best of summer's fleeting food. With Labor Day weekend the traditional closing for the many unheated restaurants, that funky shingled place by the water might be closing. Even a much-loved year-round restaurant won't have the cachet or the array of homegrown foods - the local seafood and vegetables - in February. Now is the time to gather family and friends, before the autumn scattering for school, work and home, to visit a favorite eatery. Our informal poll says the following restaurants are on the list of must-hits before the sun sets on summer. Ciro &
Sal's Recommended by Nitzi Rabin of Bewster, owner with wife Pat of Chillingsworth, a Brewster restaurant and bistro: "As a family we always think (of Ciro & Sal's) as the last place we have to go before the end of the summer," says Rabin, who is head in French-based modern cuisine. Northern Italian food and a comfortable atmosphere bring the Rabins back to Ciro and Sal's year after year. The restaurant was purchased last spring by Larry Luster and his wife, artist Cynthia Packard Luster, longtime employees of former owner Ciro Cozzi. Everything here is made from scratch. A special from the high end of the menu is rack of veal, served on herbed risotto with spinach and arugula, topped with a Burgundy demiglace and morel mushrooms ($27.50). Bartender Robert Gerard is a three-time winner of Boston Magazine's Best of Boston Bartender.
'P-town gets serious about food' .....................Nestled amid East End art galleries is Ciro and Sal's, a long-neglected P-town institution now rejuvenated by new owners Larry and Cynthia Packard Luster. Larry's brother, James, is the chef, and the Italian food is better than ever. Carciofi alla Romanelli ($8.25) -- garlicky artichoke hearts under a blanket of prosciutto and crumbs -- is large enough to share. The pastas are excellent, especially veal stock-tomato Sugo ($13) and olive-caper-anchovy-tomato Puttanesca ($15). Don't be embarrassed to dunk bread into the savory drippings of Zuppa di Vongole ($17.50), clams steamed in tomatoes and wine. Pesce all Procidana ($21), grilled, herbed halibut, is equally satisfying. If the straw-wrapped Chianti bottles hung from the ceiling spoke, they'd tell tales of such guests as Eugene O'Neill, Norman Mailer and Divine.............................
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